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Is a beautifully located little town on the
Russian River, in the central portion of Sonoma county. It is nestled amid
the mountains, and its ocean breezes render its climate pleasant and very
salubrious, It numbers about one thousand inhabitants, and is connected by
a railroad with Santa Rosa, the county seat of Sonoma county. The lands in
its vicinity are generally fertile, and are famed for producing the best
potatoes in California. Though saline lands of a gentle nature are found
now and then, their stony, glassy substances have no poisonous or
destructive effects upon the poultry who feed upon them, as in other
portions of the State. Small cereals yield largely, and even mature in
protected localities. The water of the mountain springs is deliciously
cool, soft and clear, and Mother Nature has bountifully endowed the
regions in the vicinity, far and near.
Healdsburg, another prosperous town, is located
in the Russian river valley. The town derives its name from Harmon Heald,
who, in 1846, established a trading-post in the vicinity, for supplying the
hunters and trappers in the neighboring mountains. It stands on a broad,
fertile plain, having an altitude of one hundred and seventy-five feet above the waters of San
Francisco bay, from which it is distant nearly fifty miles, being about
forty miles north of Petaluma. It is the natural trade-center of a large
agricultural region, embracing the several valleys of Russian river,
reaching fifty or sixty miles to the north, Kinight's creek, Dry creek,
Santa Rosa, and several smaller valleys, through all of which run good
roads converge to this place. The site of the town is no less beautiful
than eligible, being surrounded by scattered groves of old oaks,and other
trees of native growth, with a panorama of picturesque mountains in the
distance. In 1867, it contained 1,503 inhabitants, of whom 410 were
children under fifteen years of age. Three years before, the population
numbered but 600, of whom 500 were adults. The excellence and cheapness
of the land, together with security of title, and the prospect of early
railroad commuunication wvith the bay of San Pablo, have contributed to
greatly encouraging settlement in this part of the county. The majority
of the inhabitants came originally from the southern and southwestern
states, a circumstance indicated not more by the peculiarities of their
manners than the style of their houses, most of which have huge chimneys
built outside, after the custom in their early homes.
Petaluma is situated on a creek of the same name, and about a mile above the head of navigation, a railroad having been constructed connecting, the town with the landing. It lies about forty-five miles northwest of San Francisco, and is a growing place, the population having increased from 2,500 to over 4,000, within the last four years. It now contains seven churches, a college and a number of schoolhouses, a planing-mill, a sash and door factory, a soap and a match factory, with a ship-yard whereat vessels of as high as ninety tons' burden are built. The name of thie town signifies, in the Indian tongue from which it is derived, "Duck Hill," the locality having been famous as a resort for wild ducks prior to its settlement by the whites. A railroad, extending from some point on San Pablo bay to Healdsburg, on Russian river, having become an urgent necessity, the inhabitants of the county are making strenuous efforts to secure its construction, which there is good reason to believe will be effected at an early day, either by building a line direct from Petaluma to Healdsburg, or continuing the Napa and Calistoga road, now nearly finished,to that place. Once built to Healdsburg, there is little doubt but a railroad would be prolonged lip the russian river valley, until by gradual stages it might reach the interior of Mendocino county, if not ultimately the head waters of Eel river, following down the same to some point on Humboldt bay, and thus become the means of opening an extensive and valuable, but at present almost inaccessible region to trade and settlement.
The whole area of territory comprised in
Sonoma county is greatly influenced in climate, productions, etc., by
its contiguity to the ocean, a considerable portion of it forming the
boundary coast line. Dense and heavy fogs arise from the sea every
morning, creating a dampness and a dew which admirably supply the place
of rain, and serve at once to irrigate and fertilize the soil, preventing
those parching droughts so destructive to crops, and so discouraging to
agriculturalists in more inland portions of the State. Consequently the
harvests of such cereals and fruits as are acceptable to climate and soil
are always reliable. The nights and mornings are too cool for the rapid
growth required in the successful culture of corn, preventing its
development and maturiry, though the soil around the foot-hills is as
fertile as in Illinois and the more central States of the Union.
The capital of Sonoma county is situated on
Santa Rosa Creek, an arm of the Russian river, and is reached by rail from
Petaluma, sixteen miles southward. Its population is two thousand, very
similar in nature and characteristics to that of Healdsburg, and the
surrounding country. A fine park of live oaks, directly in front of the
court house, reminds the tourist of Florida, and gives a tropical
appearance to the scene, both by their inviting and luxurient shade, and
the otherwise careless and ill-kept appearance of the park. The court
house, an old-fashioned building of red brick, is surmounted by a dome,
ornamented with a marble statute of the Goddess of Justice, with her
blinded eyes and evenly poised scales. An edifice for a Methodist College
is in process of erection, which promises when completed to become a fine,
handsome structure. Its cost is estimated at $20,000.
Santa Rosa, the county seat, situated in a valley of the same name, about sixteen miles north from Petaluma, occupies a handsome site on the Santa Rosa creek, a small stream which, running west, falls into Russian river. The town is surrounded with oak and other forest trees, and has a well fenced plaza filled with trees, shrubs and flowers. Around this central square, the most of the stores, hotels, and other business places, are located. The first settlement upon this spot was made in 1852. The court-house is a fine building, besides which the town contains several churches and school-houses, and a number of elegant private residences. In 1860, Santa Rosa had a population of 700, which seven years later had increased to 1,800. The valley in which it is situated is about ten miles long, and six wide. It is under a high state of cultivation, and is surrounded by scenery of surpassing beauty, the Cascade mountains, a low but picturesque range, bounding it on the west, and a much more lofty and rugged chain on the east; the bold peak of Mount St. Helena, sixteen miles distant to the northeast, lifting itself to a height of 4,343 feet.
The city of Sonoma is the oldest settlement in this county, the mission of San Francisco de Solano having been founded here in 1820. The old buildings first erected still remain, though latterly converted into a church supplied with pews, cushions, carpets, gaslight, and all the modern improvements in ecclesiastical decoration. In its capacious auditorium, which once resounded with tile uncouth jargon of half-clad savages, is now heard the melodious voices of a well trained choir, mingling with the strains of instrumental music. The town is situated a short distance east of the creek that runs through the center of the valley. It is distant about twenty miles southeast of Santa Rosa, and forty miles northerly of San Francisco. Some of the original houses built here are large and, though made of adobe, are two stories high. They surround the usual courtyard, and are adorned with porticos and corridors after the Venetian style, imparting to them a comnmanding appearance-this having been the residence of the vito of the native Californians. Many of them were neatly painted, and surrounded with gardens, orchards, and walnut-trees. The residence of Gen. G. Yallejo, a spacious building, in which so many, both foreign and native, once enjoyed his hospitality, was demolished in 1856, and an elegant hotel erected on the spot; the former proprietor having parted with this, as well as with nearly all the residue of his property in the county. The town of Sonoma, which in 1864 contained only five hundred inhabitants, now numbers over one thousand.
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