Early Townships

 

 

Healdsburg

Caroline M. Churchill, 1870-1873

        Is a beautifully located little town on the Russian River, in the central portion of Sonoma county. It is nestled amid the mountains, and its ocean breezes render its climate pleasant and very salubrious, It numbers about one thousand inhabitants, and is connected by a railroad with Santa Rosa, the county seat of Sonoma county. The lands in its vicinity are generally fertile, and are famed for producing the best potatoes in California. Though saline lands of a gentle nature are found now and then, their stony, glassy substances have no poisonous or destructive effects upon the poultry who feed upon them, as in other portions of the State. Small cereals yield largely, and even mature in protected localities. The water of the mountain springs is deliciously cool, soft and clear, and Mother Nature has bountifully endowed the regions in the vicinity, far and near.
        The character of much of the population is a serious drawback to progressive growth. It is principally composed of emigrants from Missouri and the Southwestern States, who are not particularly enlightened according to the ideas of Eastern progressionists. They make it their boast that they "don't car to read nothin' no how;" are disgusted with common schools and railroads, and "stuck-up Northerners," and speak of "selling off" and "clarin' out" to "new diggins" in some unexplored wilderness where the Yankee is not, and where they can end their conservative lives without being tormented by the progressive institution of Yankeedom.
        Twenty-four miles from Healdsburg are located the Geysers or wonderful California hot springs. In a tract of land embracing about one square mile, many of these springs are found, boiling and bubbling up from the bosom of mother earth, antidotes for numerous diseases and ailments which afflict her children. From some of these, pure soda may be obtained, and others are greatly impregnated with sulphur, epsom salts, copperas, salt and iron. They are becoming quite a resort, and have been visited during the past summer by tourists and invalids from the States and other portions of California. Their curative powers for rheumatism, and particularly dyspepsia, are really remarkable. Cases of the latter of twenty years standing have been cured by the use of these waters in a week. There are also springs within three miles of Healdsburg, possessing excellent curative properties, but not as celebrated as the Geysers.

Natural Wealth of California, by Titus Fey Cronise, 1868

        Healdsburg, another prosperous town, is located in the Russian river valley. The town derives its name from Harmon Heald, who, in 1846, established a trading-post in the vicinity, for supplying the hunters and trappers in the neighboring mountains. It stands on a broad, fertile plain, having an altitude of one hundred and seventy-five feet above the waters of San Francisco bay, from which it is distant nearly fifty miles, being about forty miles north of Petaluma. It is the natural trade-center of a large agricultural region, embracing the several valleys of Russian river, reaching fifty or sixty miles to the north, Kinight's creek, Dry creek, Santa Rosa, and several smaller valleys, through all of which run good roads converge to this place. The site of the town is no less beautiful than eligible, being surrounded by scattered groves of old oaks,and other trees of native growth, with a panorama of picturesque mountains in the distance. In 1867, it contained 1,503 inhabitants, of whom 410 were children under fifteen years of age. Three years before, the population numbered but 600, of whom 500 were adults. The excellence and cheapness of the land, together with security of title, and the prospect of early railroad commuunication wvith the bay of San Pablo, have contributed to greatly encouraging settlement in this part of the county. The majority of the inhabitants came originally from the southern and southwestern states, a circumstance indicated not more by the peculiarities of their manners than the style of their houses, most of which have huge chimneys built outside, after the custom in their early homes.
        In 1841, eight square leagues of the valley, adjacent to Healdsburg, were granted by the Mexican government to an American family by the name of Fitch, some of whom continue to reside in the vicinity, though nearly all of this extensive grant has now passed from their possession. About two miles east of the town, stands an isolated peak some five hundred feet high, known as Fitch's mountain, being nearly the only reminder left of this pioneer family. The view from the top of this mountain is extremely fine, from whence may be seen Mount St. Helena to the east, the numerous ranges of Mendocino lying north, and the Pacific ocean on the west, the whole comprising a landscape abounding with striking features and diversified scenery.

 

Petaluma

Natural Wealth of California, by Titus Fey Cronise, 1868

        Petaluma is situated on a creek of the same name, and about a mile above the head of navigation, a railroad having been constructed connecting, the town with the landing. It lies about forty-five miles northwest of San Francisco, and is a growing place, the population having increased from 2,500 to over 4,000, within the last four years. It now contains seven churches, a college and a number of schoolhouses, a planing-mill, a sash and door factory, a soap and a match factory, with a ship-yard whereat vessels of as high as ninety tons' burden are built. The name of thie town signifies, in the Indian tongue from which it is derived, "Duck Hill," the locality having been famous as a resort for wild ducks prior to its settlement by the whites. A railroad, extending from some point on San Pablo bay to Healdsburg, on Russian river, having become an urgent necessity, the inhabitants of the county are making strenuous efforts to secure its construction, which there is good reason to believe will be effected at an early day, either by building a line direct from Petaluma to Healdsburg, or continuing the Napa and Calistoga road, now nearly finished,to that place. Once built to Healdsburg, there is little doubt but a railroad would be prolonged lip the russian river valley, until by gradual stages it might reach the interior of Mendocino county, if not ultimately the head waters of Eel river, following down the same to some point on Humboldt bay, and thus become the means of opening an extensive and valuable, but at present almost inaccessible region to trade and settlement.

Caroline M. Churchill, 1870-1873

        The whole area of territory comprised in Sonoma county is greatly influenced in climate, productions, etc., by its contiguity to the ocean, a considerable portion of it forming the boundary coast line. Dense and heavy fogs arise from the sea every morning, creating a dampness and a dew which admirably supply the place of rain, and serve at once to irrigate and fertilize the soil, preventing those parching droughts so destructive to crops, and so discouraging to agriculturalists in more inland portions of the State. Consequently the harvests of such cereals and fruits as are acceptable to climate and soil are always reliable. The nights and mornings are too cool for the rapid growth required in the successful culture of corn, preventing its development and maturiry, though the soil around the foot-hills is as fertile as in Illinois and the more central States of the Union.
        The summer and early autumn fruits yield so abundantly, that trees break and split beneath the burden of their delicious harvests. Peaches and plums of many varieties are exceedingly plentiful, and in flavor and quality are unexcelled in any quarter of the world. Apples become wrinkled and tasteless after being gathered a short time. They are largely imported from the Southern counties of Oregon, where they grow and mature finely.
        Petaluma, sixteen miles southward among the mountains lies contiguous with a shallow stream or rather arm of the ocean, of sufficient depth when the tide is in, to be navigable for vessels carrying from sixty to one hundred tons burden. It is a quiet, orderly little place, with fewer whisky shops than the towns and villages in its neighborhood. Most of the early Spanise settlers have sold out and emigrated to Mexico, and other congenial localities, and a different class of people taken their places. Consequently, the cock and dog fights, which were formerly the Sunday afternoon entertainments, have become extinct, and the seventh day is quiet and respected; business in the police courts is dull, and peace and order reign in the few bar-rooms which yet remain. A fine public library and two newspapers speak well for the intelligence of this little community on the Pacific. One of its drawbacks, however, is the great scarcity of fresh water. Owing to the long drouth, the cisterns are empty, and as the water from the stream is salt, this precious element of life is brought from a distance in casks, upon drays, and sold for seventy-five cents per hogshead. The streets are sprinkled with the salt water from the stream. Grass and herbage are sere and brown, but here and there fine patches of newly planted vegetables and fields of cereals are green and fresh, being nurtured by the heavy ocean fogs and dews.
        The climate is cool and invigorating, and the dampness of the fogs is not unsalubrious, its effects being the same as in England, and its people greatly resemble those of that island in color, complexion and form. An old adobe house, formerly the home of an ancient Spanish governor, is quite a curiosity. It was built anterior to the ceding of California to the Union, and has been used as a fort in the Indian wars. Now it is a peaceable, dirty farm house; the cows are milked within its courtyard, and poultry roost upon its verandahs, while the pigs are fed from troughs beneath, and their owners live within its thick mud walls, all dwelling together in peace, like the happy family of a museum.

 

Santa Rosa

Caroline M. Churchill, 1870-1873

        The capital of Sonoma county is situated on Santa Rosa Creek, an arm of the Russian river, and is reached by rail from Petaluma, sixteen miles southward. Its population is two thousand, very similar in nature and characteristics to that of Healdsburg, and the surrounding country. A fine park of live oaks, directly in front of the court house, reminds the tourist of Florida, and gives a tropical appearance to the scene, both by their inviting and luxurient shade, and the otherwise careless and ill-kept appearance of the park. The court house, an old-fashioned building of red brick, is surmounted by a dome, ornamented with a marble statute of the Goddess of Justice, with her blinded eyes and evenly poised scales. An edifice for a Methodist College is in process of erection, which promises when completed to become a fine, handsome structure. Its cost is estimated at $20,000.
        Saloons are as numerous and superabundant as in every city, town and village throughout the length and breadth of the country. Santa Rosa is extremely dusty, as it is the only town of its size in the State whose streets are not sprinkled, and in consequence of the long dry season, the dust is over a foot in depth and almost unendurable; trees and foliage have a dull ash gray hue, and when the winds blows, its clouds remind one of the dry sands of Sahara and are nearly as suffocating. One newspaper is published here, which, though Democratic in politics, is progressive and liberal upon all the great questions of the day, too much so, when compared with the mental status of its home readers. The wheat crop in this immediate vicinity has been very heavy, and pecuniary prospects are expected to brighten, and business to be lively, "when wheat begins to move," as they say here.

Natural Wealth of California, by Titus Fey Cronise, 1868

        Santa Rosa, the county seat, situated in a valley of the same name, about sixteen miles north from Petaluma, occupies a handsome site on the Santa Rosa creek, a small stream which, running west, falls into Russian river. The town is surrounded with oak and other forest trees, and has a well fenced plaza filled with trees, shrubs and flowers. Around this central square, the most of the stores, hotels, and other business places, are located. The first settlement upon this spot was made in 1852. The court-house is a fine building, besides which the town contains several churches and school-houses, and a number of elegant private residences. In 1860, Santa Rosa had a population of 700, which seven years later had increased to 1,800. The valley in which it is situated is about ten miles long, and six wide. It is under a high state of cultivation, and is surrounded by scenery of surpassing beauty, the Cascade mountains, a low but picturesque range, bounding it on the west, and a much more lofty and rugged chain on the east; the bold peak of Mount St. Helena, sixteen miles distant to the northeast, lifting itself to a height of 4,343 feet.

 

Sonoma

Natural Wealth of California,by Titus Fey Cronise, 1868

        The city of Sonoma is the oldest settlement in this county, the mission of San Francisco de Solano having been founded here in 1820. The old buildings first erected still remain, though latterly converted into a church supplied with pews, cushions, carpets, gaslight, and all the modern improvements in ecclesiastical decoration. In its capacious auditorium, which once resounded with tile uncouth jargon of half-clad savages, is now heard the melodious voices of a well trained choir, mingling with the strains of instrumental music. The town is situated a short distance east of the creek that runs through the center of the valley. It is distant about twenty miles southeast of Santa Rosa, and forty miles northerly of San Francisco. Some of the original houses built here are large and, though made of adobe, are two stories high. They surround the usual courtyard, and are adorned with porticos and corridors after the Venetian style, imparting to them a comnmanding appearance-this having been the residence of the vito of the native Californians. Many of them were neatly painted, and surrounded with gardens, orchards, and walnut-trees. The residence of Gen. G. Yallejo, a spacious building, in which so many, both foreign and native, once enjoyed his hospitality, was demolished in 1856, and an elegant hotel erected on the spot; the former proprietor having parted with this, as well as with nearly all the residue of his property in the county. The town of Sonoma, which in 1864 contained only five hundred inhabitants, now numbers over one thousand.

 

 

 

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