Towns of Sonoma County
Past and Present
Townships
Before 1856, Sonoma County had four townships, Petaluma, Sonoma, Russian River and Bodega. In 1856 it was re-apportioned into eleven townships. They were Sonoma, Vallejo, Petaluma, Analy, Santa Rosa, Russian River, Mendocino, Washington and Bodega, within the present boundaries and Ukiah and Big River, in what is now Mendocino County. Mendocino became a seperate county in 1859 and in 1867 Sonoma County was partitioned into twelve townships: Analy, Bodega, Cloverdale, Mendocino, Santa Rosa, Sonoma, Petaluma, Vallejo, Russian River, Washington, St. Helena and Salt Point. Some years later, portions of St. Helena were absorbed by Mendocino and Santa Rosa townships and the rest was named Knight's Valley. Two more townships were established, Ocean and Redwood, making a total of fourteen.
Agua Caliente
The Agua Caliente Grant was ten miles long and extended up the valley from Sonoma Creek on the west, to the hills on the east. Alcalde Lilburn Boggs was named Sonoma's first postmaster in 1849. The first newspaper in the county, the Sonoma Bulletin was started by A. J. Cox, in 1852. The communities of El Verano, Boyes Hot Springs, Agua Caliente, and Fetters Hot Springs, collectively known as The Springs have been popular since the turn of the century, when the railroads first began promoting the Sonoma Valley. The area's underground hot springs soon became a prime attraction. A San Francisco hotel owner bought Agua Caliente Hot Springs and transformed it into a first-class resort in 1901.
Analy
One of the first settlers in the Sebastopol area was Jasper O'Farrell, who bought the Rancho Estero Americano in 1843. He named the valley in which the town lies Annaly, for the ancestral home of the O'Farrell clan. Later a "n" was dropped and it became Analy. A post office was set up in a store, south of town on the stagecoach line, in 1852. In 1867, the post office was moved to Sebastopol.
Annapolis
It is a small community established inland from the Sea Ranch, with it's own post office.
Asti
Four miles south of the town of Cloverdale, the Italian Swiss Agricultural Colony was founded in 1881 by Andrea Sbarboro. Originally he established twin communities, Asti and Chianti, Asti, named for a city in northern Italy survived. Better known as the Asti Colony, it consisted of a group of immigrants from San Francisco who had become unemployed as a result of poor economic conditions. The colonists selected the Truett Ranch, a hilly and wooded tract of land bordering the Russian River, for the location of their settlement. Noting the physical and climatic similarities between the Truett Ranch and the wine-growing sections of northern Italy, the Italian members of the Asti Colony planted vineyards on the rolling hills of the property. The success of the vineyards led to an expansion of the colony's wine-making operations and the construction of a large concrete winery and cooper shop in 1887, which are now part of the colony winery.
Bloomfield
The first house was built in Bloomfield by William Zellhardt, in 1853. He soon afterward built a blacksmith shop. Larkin Cockrill built the next house here, also in 1853. In 1854 a man by the name of Horace Lamb opened a store at Mr. Cockrill's house. In 1856, a postoffice was established with Horace Lamb as postmaster. The same year, the town was laid out, C. and J. Hoag owning the western part of the site and Isaac Kuffel the eastern portion and from this time on the town flourished. By the late 1850's Bloomfield was the second largest town in Sonoma County. In 1860, a race horse breeding business, along with a large race track drew people to the town. In 1864, Bloomfield had a population of 150 and by 1877 this number had grown to 250. During this time, Bloomfield had four hotels, the Washington, Stocking House, the Cline and the Big Valley House. By 1880, the growth of Bloomfield slowed and never regained it's momentum. One of the reasons for this was failure to attract a railroad through town, which passed through Santa Rosa instead.
Bodega
Bodega was named for the Spanish sea Captain Juan Francisco de la Bodega Quadra, who sailed into the bay nearby in 1775. Bodega was originally called Kuskoff (Kushov) for the Russian leader who almost settled there. Bodega is part of the land farmed by the Russians. After their departure, the land was granted to Captain Stephen Smith, who was the first American settler in that part of the county, in 1843. In 1846, Stephen raised the American flag at Bodega only a few days after Lt. Joseph Revere raised it in Sonoma. Soon after Smith was appointed a civil magistrate of the area, a position he held until 1848. The town (then known as Bodega Corners, not to be confused with Bodega Bay) near the Smith homestead, took it's start in 1853. Three tanneries were built in 1851 by Stephen and James Fowler for Captain Smith, who operated these tanneries for years, then passed them on to James Stewart, who sold them in turn to Henry Lane. These burned down in 1968. A tannery was also erected by Thomas Murray in 1864, one mile north of Bodega. This was on the site of Stephen Smith's gristmill. The first steam sawmill was also located in this area. Built in 1843, it was located one mile northwest of Bodega Corners. By the 1860's and 1870's, the town had one schhol, two churches, three saloons, and the post office which alternated between Goodman's store and McCaughey's. The McCaughey family came to the area in 1864 and the father opened the store with Matt Aiken as partner in 1866. His son Howard took it over and was appointed postmaster in 1901. By the 1890's, Bodega had a population of 100, including the Keek, Finely, McCready, Gambini and Taylor families.
Bodega Bay
Bodega Bay and Harbor were originally discovered in the early 1600's by the expedition of Vizcaino. Two hundred years later, it was named Bodega. The Russian-American Company used the Bay as an outpost until 1841. Captain Stephen Smith took over after the Russians left and built a sawmill.
Boyes Hot Springs
Captain Henry E. Boyes and his wife, in search of a healthy climate for Mrs. Boyes, came to the valley where they learned of the medicinal value of the springs on the property of T. M. Leavenworth. In 1888, the Boyes purchased the land. In 1895, Boyes struck 112-degree water at 70 feet while drilling a well; within five years, he had built the Boyes Hot Springs Resort Hotel on the site of the current Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa. Around 1900 Boyes sold the resort and retired.
Camp Meeker
It started as a logging camp along Dutch Bill Creek. William Howard, for whom the creek was named, came in 1849. M. C. Meeker built a sawmill near Occidental in 1866.
Cazadero
The town of Cazadero has also been called Elim Grove and Ingram, after Silas D. Ingram, who came here in 1869 and built a resort hotel on Bei Road, just west of the present town. He entertained many folk from the S. F. area until the hotel burned down in 1874. He also built the first road between Cazadero and Guernville, hiring Chinese workers to do the job. A post office opened in 1881. giving the resort the status of a town. Ingram was able to convince the railroad to extend it's tracts to his place from Duncan's Mills in 1885. George S. Montgomery, a wealthy businessman from San Francisco, purchased the town in January 1888 and changed its name to Cazadero.
Cloverdale
Cloverdale was first known as Markle's Place, a trading post. It began as an early stage stop, on the old Rancho Rincon de Muscalon grant. In 1856 R. B. Markle and W. J. Miller purchased eight hundred and fifty acres of land, which included the present site of the town of Cloverdale from Johnson Horrell. In 1859 J. A. Kleiser purchased the interest of R. B. Markle in the land, and the town was laid off. Until then it was a stage stop and tavern, known as Markleville. In 1857 J. H. Hartman and F. G. Hahman, pioneer merchants of Santa Rosa opened a trading-post under the name of Hartman & Hahman, which they later sold to Levi & Co. About the same time Markle opened a tavern for the accommodation of travelers and pack-trains. A school built by J. A. Kleiser, opened in 1861. In the spring of 1872 W. J. Bowman started the Cloverdale Review, the first paper in town. After a few issues he abandoned the enterprise. Soon after, J. B. Baccus commenced the publication of the Cloverdale Bee, which he continued for about six months. In 1876, the Cloverdale News was started by W. S. Walker who sold his interest to J. F. Hoadley. The town was incorporated by special act of the legislature of 1875-6.
Cotati
In 1849, Thomas Page purchased Rancho Cotate which he controlled until 1929. Two of the seven Page sons developed the land for cattle and sheep use and it remained unchanged until the 1890's. Not until 1892 would a town begin to gather around the wood and water stop known only as Page's Station, because when Dr. Page died in 1872, he provided in his will that the ranch would not be subdivided and sold until the youngest Page son reached the age of 25. In this way, Cotati became the last of the Sonoma County Ranchos to remain intact. Finally, in 1892, the Cotati Land Company was formed by the Page family to subdivide and sell the vast ranch, and to transform Page's Station into a small town. To head up the marketing of the five, ten and twenty acre parcels, they hired David W. Batchelor, who sold over 900 tracts of land for them. On Feb. 13, 1894 the first Post Office opened and by the turn of the century Page's Station had become a town named Cotati. By 1911, the town could boast that a thousand people had celebrated the Fourth of July there. Around the Plaza businesses sprang up, including the Cotati Hotel.
Donahue's Landing
The town was built in 1870 and named after Colonel James M. Donahue, the enterprising builder and principal owner of the railroad. Located on Petaluma Creek, it was eight miles from Petaluma and seven miles from Sonoma. The town and it's buildings were moved to Tiburon in 1890. The farm of J. R. Rose, a pioneer breeder of thorough-bred Devonshire cattle was situated a few miles below Donahue.
Duncans Mills
Samuel and Alexander Duncan started a sawmill in 1860 at the place now called Bridgehaven, just over the ridge from Duncan's Landing. When the railroad line reached the north bank of the river in 1877, Alexander Duncan towed his mill and other town buildings up river on a raft to the new site, which was then called Duncan's Mills. It had a hotel, with post office, store and a population of about 100.
El Verano
The community of El Verano was born in 1888, when a new depot was built two miles west of Sonoma. Train passengers soon helped put El Verano on the map as a popular destination, with hotels such as Parente's, Paul's Resort, and El Verano Villa. El Verano was named by developer George H. Maxwell who sold lots for $80. A post office was established in 1889 with Henry Kleefer as postmaster. The town had a short lived newspaper called the Whistle which ran for two years. The center of social activity was the Bellevue Hotel. The town closed down when Maxwell was unable to guarantee property titles.
Eldridge
Once called Gelstone, Eldridge was a small community to the north and west of the resort area. The town was named for Captain Oliver Eldridge. Eldridge and Gelstone, both members of the governing board of the district had the place named for them at different times. The mild climate was one of the reasons this was chosen for the site of a state hospital, built in 1890.
Fetters Hot Springs
The communities of El Verano, Boyes Hot Springs, Agua Caliente, and Fetters Hot Springs, collectively known as the Springs have been popular since the turn of the century, when the railroads first began promoting the Sonoma Valley. The area's underground hot springs soon became a prime attraction. In 1895, Captain H. E. Boyes struck 112-degree water at 70 feet while drilling a well; within five years, he had built the Boyes Hot Springs Hotel on the site of the current Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa. A San Francisco hotel owner bought Agua Caliente Hot Springs and transformed it into a first-class resort in 1901, and in 1908 George and Emma Fetters opened Fetters Hot Springs.
Forestville
Forrestville is situated twelve miles northwest of Santa Rosa, on the border of the timber country, in what is known as Green Valley. It was part of the El Molino Rancho land grant. The Guernville branch of the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad passes within one and a half miles of the town. It was first settled in 1870 by A. J. Forrester, from whom it took it's name. In 1872, John Oliver was appointed first postmaster of the town. The following year the post office was moved to Mirabel, where the train delivered the mail. By 1877 the town had a school taught by John Scott, two churches, a general store kept by J. C. Bonsall, a blacksmith shop kept by Oliver & Harbine, one hotel, one saloon, one butcher-shop, and one wagon-maker.
Fort Ross
Fort Ross was established in 1812 by the Russians to supply food for their Alaskan bases further north. In 1841, Captain John A. Sutter purchased Fort Ross for $30,000. During Sutter's ownership, John Bidwell was appointed to supervise the transfer of supplies to Sutter's Fort on the Sacramento River. Succeeding Bidwell in 1844 was William Benitz who had purchased 17,500 acres from Mexico. In 1847 he severed his connection with Sutter and sold the property to Charles Fairfax and moved to Oakland. Fairfax and his partner James Dixon were the first Americans to develop an extensive lumber industry. After the death of Fairfax the property was sold to George W. Call in 1873 who made the ranch an important trade and shipping center. He built a hotel, race track, saloon, a post and telegraph station, weather station, store and meat market. When Call died in 1907, he left the thriving ranch to his sons George and Carlos Call.
Fossville
Located between Kellogg and Calistoga, it was named after Clark Foss, the noted stage driver, who then handled the line to the geysers. Foss opened a hostelry in 1871 and it was well patronized.
Franklin
In 1850, a French-Canadian fur trapper named Oliver Beaulieu bought 640 acres from Julio Carrillo, and in 1853 surveyed and laid out a town on the north bank of Santa Rosa Creek. He named the town Franklin after his brother and began to sell lots. Among the first buyers were Matthew McPeak and John W. Ball who built a small hotel and store. That Spring, S. G. Clark, Dr. J. F. Boyce and Nute McClure bought out Ball and erected a small dry goods store, where they continued business until the Fall, when the firm of Clark, Boyce & McClure was bought out by McCluer and Coulter. In the same season John Ball erected a wooden hotel, there being then in town H. Beaver, who kept a blacksmith shop, and W. B. Birch, a saddle-tree manufacturer, while in the early part of 1854 S. T. Coulter erected a dwelling house. Franklin's Baptist Church became the first church in the valley. But, when Santa Rosa became the county seat, John Ball and his neighbors all moved a mile and a half to the new town and Franklin didn't survive.
Freestone
In 1835, Vallejo invited James McIntosh, James Dawson and James Black to settle in a valley west of Sebastopol. When James McIntosh returned from Monterey with a grant deed for land that did not include his name, James Dawson sawed the house in which they had been living, in half with a cross-cut saw. Later, he moved his half of the house to the site where it still stands today. The mill on the Jonive was completed, and run until 1849, by McIntosh, James Black, Thomas Butters, William Leighton, Thomas Wood, and a pioneer named Tom. That year they sold all the lumber they had to F. G. Blume, and left for the gold mines. In 1849 Jasper O'Farrell bought the Estero Americano ranch, of two leagues, one thousand five hundred head of cattle, and one hundred and fifty head of horses, in consideration of a promise to pay McIntosh an annuity of eight hundred dollars, or, should he elect in lieu of the annuity, the sum of five thousand dollars in cash. The latter sum was afterwards paid by Mr. O'Farrell, who acquired title to the property. The Hon. Jasper O'Farrell exchanged a ranch, which he owned in Marin, with Black for the Jonive, on part of which Freestone stands. In 1853, the place was named Freestone for a nearby public quarry of easily extracted sandstone. Freestone was the terminus for the narrow-gauge North Pacific Railroad, and when the roadbed was laid down in Freestone in 1872-73, Mr. Hind, the proprietor of the local hotel decided to extend his booming hotel business by going out each night and burning down the railroad bridges that had been erected during the day. After the railroad was finished Freestone became a trade center for the surrounding areas. In 1875, what began as the local grocery store evolved into a post office. In 1887, a schoolhouse was built on a knoll overlooking the valley.
Fulton
North of Santa Rosa, the first town to grow was Fulton, named for the Thomas and James Fulton who bought the land in 1858. The railroad came to Fulton and by 1891 there was a hotel, several stores, a livery stable, two blacksmith shops, grain houses and a winery. Laumann's store opened the first post office in 1874, with Frank Howell as the first postmaster. In 1906 a new post office was built with Minnie K. Miller as postmistress. Dr. W. P. Burke built Burke's Sanitarium at Alturia in the foothills east of Fulton.
Geyserville
The Geysers were discovered in 1847, by William Elliott and in 1851, a man named Levy built a house on a level plateau overlooking the Geysers. In 1854, Major Ewing opened a hotel near Levy, which was sold to William Forsyth in 1877 and Archibald C. Godwin opened a store. In 1863, Clark Foss, opened a second stage coach line from Healdsburg to the Geysers. Later, John Clare bought a large tract of land here and his wife soon petitioned for a post office. She was named postmistress and she had the name of the place changed to Clareville. There was already a post office at Geyser Springs, which began getting mail intended for Geyserville residents, so the name was changed back to Geyserville. Pioneers of this town include George Petray, Davenport Cozzens, Henry Wiedersham and Mr. and Mrs. Archambeau. The first settler here was Cozzens, the postmaster and merchant in Upper Dry Creek Valley. Dr. Elisha Ely also claimed to be the town's first settler. William A. Ford owned the first saloon. By 1880, the town had a store, post office, saloon, hotel, blacksmith shop and a newspaper called the Geyserville Gazette. By 1900, the town had 300 residents.
Glen Ellen
Glen Ellen, a part of the Agua Caliente Rancho was transferred from Lazaro Pine to General Vallejo by grant deed, on Dec 4, 1829. The land was sold several times until bought in 1859 by Colonel Charles V. Stuart. He named his ranch Glen Ellen, after his wife Ellen and the name later came to include the town. Vineyard and winery owner, Charles Justi was the first postmaster of Glen Ellen's post office, which was established in July 1871. He also ran a stage service between the valley towns. The Mervyn Hotel was built in 1885, followed by the Glen Ellen and Riverside Hotels. Joshua Chauvet was the banker of Glen Ellen from 1856. He had a mill and a large vineyard. Jack London State Park in near Glen Ellen. The residences of wine growers Colonel C. V. Stuart and Hon. J. B. Warfield surrounded Glen Ellen.
Graton
Graton began as a small rural town, with apple processing plants, north of Sebastopol. A tiny hamlet in Green Valley, it boasted a private school, Jones Academy, before public schools existed in the area. The town was founded in 1904 by James Gray and J. H. Brush. Before it became Graton, it was Gray Town, as well as Grayton. The first dwelling in Graton was owned by Alfred Neep. John Robertson was the first postmaster when the Graton Post Office opened in 1906. T. J. Jones opened the first grocery store and also ran a lumberyard.
Guerneville
Guernville was settled on May 1, 1860, by Robert Barton Lunsford and his claim was filed the following year, on Mar 28, 1861. Two weeks following Lunsford's official claim, Richard E. Lewis entered his on Apr 11, 1861. Lewis later became the proprietor of the Great Eastern Quicksilver Mine. The first claim on record for the area was filed on Feb 24, 1859, by W. H. Willits. He later entered the first claim upon the site of the Great Eastern Quicksilver Mine in 1863. The next land claim in what would become Guerneville was filed by Shelby Helm in 1861, followed by Henry Hulbert. The largest mill in the area known as Big Bottom, later to be known as Guerneville had four partners. They were John W. Bagley, Thomas Heald, W. H. Willis and George Emil Guerne. Both Bagley and Willits soon dropped out of the partnership. In 1879, Heald sold his interest to Thomas J. Ludwig. In march of 1880, Rufus Murphy bought into the partnership, which was disolved in September to become Guerne and Murphy. In 1892, the Sonoma Lumber Company of Westover brothers and Robert Dollar bought it and George Guerne retired. D. L. Westover became an important citizen of the town. John Washington Bagley became the first postmaster, when that office was created in 1870. That year the town's common name of Stumptown was officially changed to Guerneville. Bagley operated a general store. He was the community bone setter, tooth puller and first aid authority, as well as undertaker and sexton. For thirteen years he was a school trustee. Somehow he qualified himself as a civil engineer and his local land surveys were never questioned. In 1874, there was a recorded population of 205 persons, only 62 of whom were female. Yet, the town boasted a good hotel, two general stores and a saloon in 1874.
Healdsburg
Captain Henry D. Fitch was given the 48,000 acre, Rancho Sotoyome land grant in two parcels, one eight league piece in 1841 and a three league piece in 1844. Fitch looked after trade in San Diego and sent Cyrus Alexander to develop the rancho, promising him 10,000 acres in return. Cyrus picked Alexander Valley as his payment and moved there, at which time management was turned over to Moses Carson, half brother of Kit Carson. After Captain Fitch's death in 1849, his widow, Josefa and her children came from San Diego to live on the Sotoyome Ranch. In 1856, Josefa was forced to auction parts of the land to pay the taxes. Harmon Heald who had been quatting on the Sotoyome Ranch since 1850, purchased 100 acres, at the auction for $200. Later that year Heald purchased 10 more acres from his brother in law, Aquilla B. Aull and another 55 acres from brother in law George T. Espy. Aull and Espy had purchased these lots at the original land auctions and it is on these tracts that the town of Healdsburg was mapped and recorded. Heald sold lots for $15 each and by 1860 Healdsburg had 500 residents and 120 homes.Among the earlier pioneers of Healdsburg were Harrison Barnes, who operated a trading post of Eastside Road in 1851. Another was Cornelius Bice, who settled in 1853 on what is now the Lewis Norton property, on Grove Street. It was here that his home was burned during the Squatters disputes in 1862. H. M. Wilson came in 1853 and engaged in merchandising with Harmon Heald and served as Justice of the Peace for eight years. Both men were county supervisors, with Heald going on to become assemblyman, before he died in 1858. Captain Lewis A. Norton was the pioneer attorney of Healdsburg, settling in the area in 1857. He was instrumental in resolving the Squatter's War and became the town's first mayor in 1867. Colonel Rod Matheson was responsible for the first school, before he was killed in the Civil War, in 1863. A mill was erected in the area by William March, who agreed to provide lumber for Fitch's ranch improvements. Dr. B. B. Bonham was the first physician, followed soon by J. J. Piper, for whom Piper Street was named. R. Hertel and David Bloom each open small dry goods stores on West Street and then came James E. Fenno with a watch and jewelry store. Bill Thurgood had the first saloon and Jim Forrester opened a second one the same year. William Macy had the first drug store. He died in 1859 and was succeeded by W. S. Canan. Later Canan was joined by Charles E. Hutton. M. H. Hayes and W. A. Maxwell opened another drug store in 1860, which was destroyed by fire in 1861. Alexander J. Cox launched the first newspaper, the Healdsburg Review in 1860.
Jenner
In 1867, John Rule bought 4,000 acres of the Nuniz Rancho, at the mouth of the Russian River. Charles Jenner, a literary man, came to the area a year later. Rule invited Jenner to build a house of his land, while Jenner was looking for material for his writing. The gulch where he built his home, was called Jenner Gulch and the town that grew there was named for him.
Jimtown
The area was named for James Patrick, who opened his general store in 1892. The Alexander Valley Post Office was inside Patrick's store and he was the postmaster from 1892 to 1903. C. H. Wilson opened a blacksmith shop next door to the general store and Stagg's Leap winery was a half mile down the road. The first permanent church in the valley was built in Jimtown in 1786.
Kellogg
Kellogg is situated in Knight's valley, at the foot of St. Helena mountain, about seven miles from Calistoga and 17 miles from Healdsburg. The first building was constructed of adobe clay by Berryessa, to which he made additions of frame and stone. It was afterward remodeled and operated as a hotel. The Knight's Valley House was kept by E. Ewing, as a place of summer resort. The Steele Brothers were the owners of the Knight's Valley ranch, which included about seven thousand acres, upon which the Knight's Valley House stood. Adjoining them was the estate of Calvin Holmes, a portion of the original Rancho de Mallacomes, which formerly included the whole of Knight's valley. The farm of George Hood, Esq., of Santa Rosa, was located near Kellogg, and was also formerly a portion of the Knight's Valley tract.
Kenwood
Kenwood sprang up halfway between Sonoma and Santa Rosa with the arrival of the railroad. In 1887, the Sonoma Land & Improvement Company which owned the property, laid out lots. First called Rohrerville for one of the owners of the land company, the name was next changed to Los Guilicos, the title of the Mexican land grant for the area. In 1895, the residents voted on Kenwood as the permanent name.
Lakeville
Lakeville was built on part of the Petaluma Rancho Grant given to Vallejo. This place is situated on Petaluma creek, a short distance above Donahue.It was settled by C. H. Bodwell and was the terminal for the San Francisco to Lakeville steamer. The town was located over the ridge to the east of Lakeville Highway, in the dry bed of former Lake Tolay.
Larkfield
Mark West
In 1840, William Marcus West acquired the Rancho San Miguel land grant from the Mexican Governor Alvardo, which included 6,663 acres between the Mark West and Santa Rosa Creeks. On the Rancho San Miguel, Mark West built a great adobe hacienda and established a trading post and post office near the stream which now bears his name. In exchange for the land, Mark West agreed to furnish cattle skins to General Vallejo and cut trees to supply lumber for the Mexican government. When the railroad reached Fulton in 1871, the buildings and town of Mark West were moved there. The original Mark West School was located in the same location as we have today. However, the school was only one room. The area was also the hub of the town and included a general store, post office, blacksmith shop, and the adobe home on the banks of the Mark West Creek.
Mendocino
Mercury
William Henry Willits was the first settler here in 1859. The Mt. Jackson Cinnebar Mine was started in 1873. Cinnebar was the ore from which mercury or quicksilver was taken. In the 1890's the mine had it's own post office, known as Mercury. As the mine stopped working, the miners moved away and the town no longer existed.
Monte Rio
The town was first called Ingram, after it's first settler, Silas D. Ingram who came here in 1869 and built a resort hotel.
Moscow
The town of Moscow used to be west of Monte Rio, just before Duncans Mills. It was the end of the line for the narrow gauge railroad, which came up from Sausalito. The town took it's name from a large sawmill that was originally located across the Russian River from present-day Duncans Mills. The North Pacific Coast Railroad terminated here from late 1876 until May of 1877 when the railroad bridge across the Russian River was built.
Occidental
Occidental started as a railroad town. The first settler was Michael Kolmer who leased part of the Bodega Rancho Spanish land grant in 1848, two and a half miles west of Occidental in Coleman Valley, once known as Kolmer Valley. The settlement was later called Howard's Station, after William Howard, who had come here in 1848 and was the first settler to own his land. The first mill in the immediate area of Occidental, was built about a mile south of the present townsite in 1859 and run by Messrs. Mudge, Phelps and Perkins until 1862. In 1866, Melvin C. Meeker began processing lumber through a mill located close to the site of the original Mudge operation. By 1876, nine months after the completion of the North Pacific Coast Railroad, there were three sawmills in the Occidental area, and by 1877 there were six. In 1876, the post office was named the Occidental Post Office. In 1877, the population of the town of Occidental was estimated at around 50 people, and an 1880 census describes 97 residents.
Ocean
A new township was formed out of Salt Point and Bodega known as Ocean Township. Thomas Beacon and John R. Rule were the first Justices of the Peace. Edwin P. Philbrick and King Foster were the first Constables and Dr. R. Press Smith received the appointment of the County Physician.
Penngrove
Originally part of the Rancho Cotate land grant, Penngrove was deeded to Juan Castenada in 1844. The town was first called Penn, and later Penn's Grove and then Penngrove.
Petaluma
General Vallejo occupied the Petaluma ranch from 1836, and built the first house in the valley. The land on the west side of the creek was claimed under a Mexican grant by Juan Miranda, who settled there in 1838, and built a small house about two miles from the present city of Petaluma. In 1850, Dr. A. F. Heyerman had a log-cabin on what was afterwards called the Rogers place, near Petaluma. In October, 1850, John Lockwood came up the creek with one or two others in a whale-boat, attracted by reports of the abundance of game. They camped under the oaks on the bank of the creek just above the town, on what is now known as the Bell place. Lockwood and party hunted for the San Francisco market, making regular trips to the city in the Spark, an they called their whale-boat. The next to come were Linus and Wiatt; Lockwood and Wiatt are still residents of Petaluma. Baylis and Flogdell, well known pioneers, came a week after Linus and Wiatt, and all camped near the same place, and hunted or purchased game, which they took to the San Francisco market. They gave Petaluma its first start as a shipping point. Major Singley, the agent of the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad at Petaluma, was the next arrival. Two small trading posts were started near Lockwood camp; one by Baylis & Flogdell, the other by Linus & Wiatt. The first house in the city limits proper was a warehouse built by James McReynolds, of Analy township, and his partner James Hudspeth, for storing potatoes. It stood on the bank of the creek, just below the bridge, at the foot of Washington street. In 1852 Garrett Keller took up a 158 acre claim which included the town site, and started selling lots for $10. He built a house on the creek, above the bridge, where the stone warehouse now stands. On the 3d day January, 1852, the town was first surveyed by J. A. Brewster for Mr. Keller. Tom Lockwood and Major Singley carried the chain for this survey. The first merchants of Petaluma were Kent and Smith who opened a country store in 1852 on the east side of Main street. F. H. Coe bought in the business, and the firm changed to Kent, Smith & Coe. The first families who came to the town were old man Douglas and the Hathaways. The first hotel was started by Robert Douglas and a man named Adams. The first school was kept by A. B. Bowers. The first postmaster in Petaluma county, was a W. D. Kent. He was succeeded by Dr. Brown, and Dr. Brown by S. N. Terrell. The first justice of the peace was M. G. Lewis. J. Chandler, Judge Jackson Temple and Judge J. B. Southard were the first lawyers in the town. The pioneers Zartman & Fritch started business in January, 1852, with James F. Reed, as blacksmith. In 1855, there were 481 voters and by the following year there were 801. Petaluma's first newspaper, the Sonoma County Journal began in 1855. The Argue closely followed and the two merged in the 1860's. Between 1854 and 1860, Petaluma grew faster than any other town in the county.
Pine Flat
In 1872, Pine Flat was a remote strip of land, with the Calistoga Road it's only link to civilization. In the Summer of 1873, Clark Foss who ran stages to the Geyers, built a stage station. The same summer, twins Granville and Greenville Thompson took up a claim of land that included Pine Flat, laid out a town and began selling lots for $200. They built a store, livery stable, a large hotel and a post office, of which Granville Thompson was appointed postmaster. The post office was first known as Dodgeville. By the end of 1874, the town boasted of 35 houses and 24 businesses. By 1875, Pine Flat was the busiest community in Northern Sonoma County, but one year later was a full fledged ghost town.
Preston
Formerly known as Oak Mountain, the area was first settled in 1857, by Samuel Larrison of Ohio, but was regarded as a part of Cloverdale until Col. Hartwell and Emily Preston arrived in 1873 and purchased 1,500 acres. Hartwell convinced the railroad to build a spur to their property, which they named Preston and built an impressive Victorian mansion. Preston was the gateway to the Geysers, known for it's quality mineral water, which faith healer, Madame Emily Preston used in her treatment of many patients who came to her infirmaries. Eventually, Preston had its own school, hospital, cemetery, and a number of residential cottages. The community broke up after Emily's death in 1909. In 1988, a fire burned the once elegant Preston mansion to the ground, but the Church of Heaven on Probation still stands, as does the adjacent clock tower.
Rio Nito
This small community near Monte Rio was once called Eaglenest.
Rohnert Park
The town named for Waldo Emerson Rohnert was built on flat adobe land once known as the Waldo Rohnert Park Seed Farm. In November, 1957, the Paul Golis family and the "Tuckey" Moran family moved into the first completed homes in Rohnert Park. When the city was incorperated in 1962 it consisted of 1,325 acres, housing an estimated 2,775 persons; the fourth largest City in Sonoma County. The same year the John Reed School was the first to open its doors.
Santa Rosa
The first house in the valley was built in 1838, on Santa Rosa Creek. The land was granted to Mrs. Carrillo, the mother of the wife of General Vallejo. In 1851, David Mallagh, who had married one of Mrs. Carrillo's daughters and Donald McDonald opened the first store and post office. In 1852, they were bought out by Alonzo Meacham and Barney Hoen, who established a general store and trading post. In 1852, Meacham sold the 70 acres of future downtown Santa Rosa that he had bought from Julio Carrillo, to Barney Hoen for $1,600. Carrillo and Hoen surveyed the land for a town and lots were sold for $25 each. In 1854, the town was chosen to be the new count seat. By the time Alexander J. Russell launched Santa Rosa's first newspaper, the Sonoma Democrat, in 1857, Santa Rosa had grown to 100 buildings. By the end of the decade it had 400 citizens and several businesses in the plaza. The railroad was completed in 1872. In the following five years, the population went from 1,000 to 5,000.
Schellville
In 1879, the Sonoma Valley Railroad built a station and named it Schellville, after Theodore Schell who had settled on a 1000 acre ranch nearby in 1860. When the Southern Pacific laid tracks in the same area in 1887, they named their station Shellville. Around this time a townsite was laid out and lots were advertized in the Schellville Ray, the local newspaper. Soon the town had several hotels, a lumberyard, general store, post office and school. At the turn of the century, Sonoma Creek filled with mud and large vessels could no longer reach Embarcadero and the landing moved downstream, so the town faded away.
Sea Ranch
Sebastopol
One of the first settlers in the Sebastopol area was Jasper O'Farrell, who bought the Rancho Estero Americano in 1843. Joaquin Carrillo was the first Sebastopol resident, building his adobe house on his Llano de Santa Rosa Rancho, in 1846. In 1850, John Walker and Joseph Miller located near Carrillo's adobe and Walker opened a trading post. The town of Sebastopol was founded by J. H. P. Morris, in 1855, when he took up a claim of 120 acres, on the site of a Pomo Village. The same year, Morris opened a saloon, John Dougherty opened a general merchandise store nearby, in a grove of pine that gave the town it's first name of Pine Grove. The Analy Post Office was moved from Analy to Sebastopol in 1867. Captain Auser started the first hotel in town. John Bowman bought out Auser, and Henry Wilson succeeded him in 1859.
Sonoma
In 1835 the Mexican government, which had succeeded Spanish rule, sent Lt. Mariano G. Vallejo to Sonoma to establish a military post, to deter the Russians at Fort Ross from encroaching farther south, to oversee the secularization of the mission, and to lay out the pueblo of Sonoma. In the center of Sonoma is an eight acre plaza laid out by Vallejo. Nearby, Vallejo constructed barracks for his troops and an adjoining multi-storied Casa Grande. Immediately surrounding the Plaza were a number of historic structures, including the Mission, Vallejo's barracks, the homes of several dignitaries, including Colonel Joe Hooker, the Union Hotel and Green's courthouse. Mexican rule ended here in 1846, when local settlers raided the military post, taking Vallejo prisoner. They proclaimed the independence of California with the raising of the Bear Flag over the Sonoma Plaza. The residence of Gen. G. Yallejo was demolished in 1856, and an elegant hotel erected on the spot. By 1864, the town of Sonoma had 500 inhabitants.
Stewarts Point
Known as Fisherman's Bay until 1880, the small rural town was settled by Colt Fisk and his brother A. L. Fisk, who came from Vermont looking for gold. They settled in the area in 1868 and built a store and hotel. Two years later, they built a mill down the coast where Kruse Ranch is now. After learning about the area in letters from the Fisks, Herbert Richardson and his wife Althea came from New Hampshire and open a bar across from Fisk's hotel. Later, he rented, then bought the hotel from Fisk.
Stony Point
A post office was established at Stony Point in May of 1857, with P. N. Woodworth being appointed postmaster. The Stony Point House was on the farm of P. N. Woodworth, who settled there as early as 1851.
Two Rock
This place took its name from two rather peculiar rocks, which were called by the Californians Dos Piedros. These rocks stood on a point where the Blucher and Balsa de Tomales ranchos cornered. They were also a landmark on the northwestern boundary of the Laguna de San Antonio, or Bojorques Ranch. The old Mexican trail, from San Rafael to Bodega and Ross, passed between these two rocks. The first settlers, in the neighborhood of Two Rocks, were Samuel Tustin, J. R. Lewis, Charles Purvine, S. M. Martin, James and E. Denman. The post-office was at the junction of the Bloomfield and Tomales roads, about a mile and a-half from the two rocks from which it takes its name. The farm where the post-office is located was first settled by John Schwobeda. He sold it to Charles Weigand, who became postmaster. There was at the cross-roads, a Grange hall, a Presbyterian church and a blacksmith-shop. S. M. Martin owned a fine farm in this area. Two Rock is eight miles from Petaluma.
Valley Ford
Valley Ford was first called Fowlerville for Stephen L. and James E. Fowler, who in 1849 purchased of F. G. Blume 640 acres of land lying between the Ebabias creek and the Estero, and built a house two hundred yards from the ford. Thomas Smith, who had been engaged in running a saw-mill with Messrs. Hendy and Duncan built a cabin on the point between Ebabias creek and the Estero, on land they also had purchased from F. G. Blume. Whitehead Fowler came to the country in 1852. The same year E. Thurber settled upon the tract east of town. These were the first settlers at Valley Ford and the adjoining ranches. In May, 1854, Stephen C. Fowler and his wife, the parents of S. L., James E., and W. Fowler, with their three sons, John H., Benjamin, and Nathaniel, arrived at Valley Ford. Mrs. Fowler was the first female resident of the town. In 1856 Thomas Smith ran his grist-mill with twelve horses and two runs of stone. Two years later a steam engine took the place of horses, and the mill soon became famous for the excellent quality of flour made there. In the fall of 1861 Daniel Hall opened a blacksmith shop. In the spring of 1861 John H. Fowler opened a general merchandise business. James E. Fowler opened a lumber-yard, and E. B. & J. W. Palmer built a carpenter shop. In 1863 the Methodist church was built. J. N. Rien built the Valley Ford hotel in 1864. An express and post-office was established. In 1876 P. E. Merritt opened a new grocery store in the place. J. Parry opened a tin shop, and John Hunter opened a meat market.
Villa Grande
Vineburg
Windsor
In 1851, R. T. Mitchell was the first settler of Windsor, located on the county road between Healdsburg and Santa Rosa. The next year Mr. White and his wife Josephine came to live here. They were joined by Squire Prewett, Mr. Slusser, Alex Smith, A. B. Nalley and Major Calhoun. The town was first named Poor Man's Flat, by a prominent citizen, Tom Sewell. The first marriage was in 1851, when John Prewett and Bettie Brooks were married at the home of Mr. Chitwood. The same year, Harrison Barnes was elected first Justice of the Peace. In 1853, the first schoolhouse was built with John Prewett as schoolmaster. In 1854, Hiram Lewis established a post office and gave it the name of Windsor. In 1857, he sold it to Thad Deshier. As settlers came, a public house, the Windsor Retreat was built in 1856. Windsor's first store was opened by a man named Buckalew in 1856. About the same time, Davis W. Graham started a blacksmith shop. The next year a store was opened by T. K. Wilson, followed by the Rosenburgs. Henry Bell opened a mercantile store on his 160 acres where Windsor now stands. The town was laid out in 1858, on recommendation of Sam Emmerson, who opened the first hotel, known as the Windsor Hotel. He later sold it to Thomas Hopkins.
Wingo
Just east of Schellville in the sloughs along the creek is the Valley's last ghost town of Wingo. Once a bustling train station for visitors arriving from San Francisco by steam boat, this cluster of vintage cabins, workshops, and barns is home to a handful of residents.
Valleys
Alexander Valley
Alexander Valley is named for Cyrus Alexander who first built a redwood cabin in the valley in 1845. In the summer of 1846 or in 1847, Cyrus and the Indian laborers started work on a second large adobe house, which would be shared with his friend and employee, Frank Bedwell. He received official title to his Alexander Valley ranch in September 1847, when he was 42 years old. Rev. A.L.S. Bateman, a pioneer Methodist minister, held his services in 1852 in the best room of Cyrus' adobe. Bateman built a church and Sunday school in the Valley the next year. That church also became the first regular day school, although Cyrus built a schoolhouse on his own land known as Pine Grove in the 1870's.
Bennett Valley
Bennett Valley was named for James N. Bennett who came from Missouri by wagon train, arriving in the valley in 1849 and settling the property he purchased from General Vallejo. James Bennett was later elected to the State Assembly where he introduced the bill that made Santa Rosa the county seat in 1854. In 1862, Isaac DeTurk grew grapes on land he acquired from James Bennett and named his winery Belle Mount. A settler by the name of John Shakleford Taylor settled in Bennett Valley in 1853 and owned 2,000 acres on what we now call Taylor Mountain. Taylor's land holdings were the largest under one name in the County at that time, and were some of the richest and most productive valley lands in Santa Rosa. Besides operating a dairy and stock ranch for over 50 years, he mined coal from several mines, and grew both Zinfandel and Mission grapes. The one thing Taylor was probably best known for was his "White Sulphur Springs" resort. Later re-named "The Kawana Springs Resort". In 1851 Bennett Valley residents started their own school district and called it the Santa Rosa School District. The first school building built by the Bennett Valley community was near the bridge at Matanzas Creek. A few years later the "Strawberry School" was started at the other end of the valley. The oldest standing active Grange Hall in the United States was built in 1873 by residents of Bennett Valley.
Sources
Just Before Yesterday, a History of Sonoma County, by Lorna Drake, 1978
Wild Oates in Eden, Sonoma County in the 19th Century, by Harvey J. Hansen and Jeanne T. Miller, 1962
Out of the River Mist, an authentic History of Guernville, Sonoma County, by C. Raymond Clar, 1973
SCGS, the Sonoma Searcher